Elke maand geeft de Britse Award Winning Men Stylist Sam Wall zijn visie op de kapperswereld. Deze keer over het knippen van krullen bij mannen.
“In this column I wanted to speak about curly hair. Here we have Cameron from Tyne Tees Models, I actually love cutting curly hair on guys. In my experience guys don’t often like their curls. I suppose it’s that typical thing that we always want what we can’t have. It’s a bit like when you see someone else’s food in a restaurant and you think it looks and tastes better than what you have ordered.
With curly hair there is not much the client feels they can do with it. It’s natural state tends to take over and of course it depends on how much of a curl there is and how strong the curl is. Now you can always spend a lot of time straightening it or styling it to remove the curl. Despite this, I’ve seen a change within my client base who have curly hair and a lot of guys are now embracing the curls. I would encourage them to keep the curl as much as possible. I’ve even had guys with straight hair coming in this year and asking for perms. I can see that longer hair is coming back.
When cutting curly hair we have to be very careful and allow for what I call the ‘spring back’. Tension throughout the whole haircut has to be kept even. Depending on the look wanted and how tight the curl is, depends on how much tension should be applied. A little tip: I like to use the feather razor to remove weight. This will help soften and loosen the curl if the client feels it’s too curly. When using the feather razor to remove weight directional movement is vital, as it will help the curl flow into its natural state.
When styling curly hair I always try to keep it as natural as possible. Applying product in different ways can help keep the curl more natural and make the clients life a whole lot easier when they do it themselves at home. For example I tend to apply product to wet curly hair. I then either leave it to dry naturally, or blow dry the hair on a light heat and soft air flow until its left a little damp as this will help calm the frizz down.”